The full curriculum.
Six modules, twenty-two lessons, four projects. Designed to be worked in order — each module assumes the mechanics of the previous one — but every lesson stands alone if you already have the fundamentals.
Module 01 · Foundations
Before touching a needle, understand what a punched loop actually is: a folded end of yarn pushed through backing fabric, held in place by the friction of the surrounding weave. This module reframes the whole craft in physical terms so every later decision has a reason.
- Lesson 1.1 — The anatomy of a punched loop
- Lesson 1.2 — Punch needle vs. rug hooking vs. tufting
- Lesson 1.3 — Why fabric tension is the whole game
Module 02 · Tools & Materials
The two families of punch needle (Oxford-style fixed vs. adjustable Ukrainian-style), the two families of backing fabric (monks cloth vs. weaver's cloth), and the yarn-to-needle-to-fabric matrix that determines whether your loops stay in.
- Lesson 2.1 — Punch needle types and what they're for
- Lesson 2.2 — Foundation fabrics: monks cloth, weaver's cloth, linen
- Lesson 2.3 — Yarn weight, fiber, and matching to your needle
- Lesson 2.4 — Frames, hoops, and getting drum-tight tension
During Module 02, you can build a 14" gripper lap frame from pine 1×2 and carpet tack strip for about $25 — the same frame used for Projects 02–04.
Module 03 · Setup & Design Transfer
The unglamorous prep work that decides how the rest of the project feels. Framing without warping the weave, mirroring your design (you punch from the back), and four transfer methods ranked by clarity.
- Lesson 3.1 — Cutting and taping monks cloth
- Lesson 3.2 — Mounting on a gripper frame vs. embroidery hoop
- Lesson 3.3 — Four ways to transfer a design (and which to use when)
Module 04 · Core Technique
The mechanical heart of the craft. Grip, angle, punch depth, anchor stitches, row direction, corner turns. Almost every "my loops keep coming out" problem is one of these five variables — this module makes each of them explicit.
- Lesson 4.1 — The pen grip and the open channel
- Lesson 4.2 — Threading, tension buffer, and the loose puddle
- Lesson 4.3 — Anchor stitches: how to start and stop a color
- Lesson 4.4 — Row spacing, outlines, and filling
- Lesson 4.5 — Turning corners without pulling loops
Module 05 · Sculpted & Carved Pile
Move from uniform loops to varied pile heights, then shear and carve for dimensional relief. The techniques that push a rug from surface decoration into sculpture.
- Lesson 5.1 — Setting an adjustable needle for varied pile
- Lesson 5.2 — Shearing with appliqué scissors
- Lesson 5.3 — Carving relief, defining edges, and revealing shadow
Module 06 · Finishing & Longevity
How a piece survives real life. Tail management, hemming the raw monks cloth border, latex vs. latex-free glue-back, steam-blocking to flatten warps, and mounting for wall or floor.
- Lesson 6.1 — Managing tails and trimming safely
- Lesson 6.2 — Binding and hemming the edges
- Lesson 6.3 — Glue-back vs. no glue-back (and when to choose)
- Lesson 6.4 — Steam-blocking and mounting
Four progressive projects
Each project intentionally introduces one new variable so that when something goes wrong, you can identify which variable is off. Do them in order the first time through.
- Project 01 · Mug rug coaster. ~5" square. Two colors. Straight rows only. Introduces: grip, anchor stitches, filling.
- Project 02 · Simple wall hanging. ~10"×10". Three colors, one curve. Introduces: color changes, curved rows, tail management.
- Project 03 · Small floor rug. ~18"×24". Four+ colors, multiple curves, a bordered composition. Introduces: scale, edge binding, blocking.
- Project 04 · Sculpted wall piece. ~14"×18". Varied pile heights, carved relief. Introduces: adjustable needle, shearing, sculpting.
→ Read the full project briefs
If you already run an AK-I or similar gun, read the tufting crossover notes before Module 04 — a few transferred habits actively fight punch needle technique.